Boston Globe - August 23, 2006
When it comes to beachside dining, the view doesn’t come any better than the one at Hemisphere. Situated right by the sand and sea in Sandwich, Hemisphere doesn’t just offer inspiring vistas over Cape Cod Bay: With upper and lower outside decks and panoramic interior windows, it virtually spoon-feeds them. Though a new name in Cape dining, for almost three decades the restaurant was previously known as Horizons. After a revamp, new owners Tracy and Eric LaBonte reopened the two-story restaurant and bar (plus function room) in May.
The interior is simple and sleek, with blond wood and fresh white paint. A central bar dominates the room, but the star attraction is the nightly floor show through the windows as the sun sets, ribboning the sky with ever-changing shades of orange. Hemisphere is ‘‘upscale casual’’ with classy tableware and the menu is medium-priced, with entrees ranging from $15 to $22, and a nice selection of wines that run from $22 to $40.
It’s the thoughtful touches to standard dishes that count, though. The arugula salad ($7) is dotted with strawberries, with both leaves and berries perfectly accented by a balsamic vinegar dressing and a smattering of black pepper, and it’s complimented by toasted sunflower seeds and a goat cheese crostini. Huge housemade ravioli ($14 for entrée) are stuffed with crabmeat and dressed in a sauce of crème fraiche and red bell pepper, which is flecked with roasted corn kernels.
If there’s a downside, it’s overcrowding. In other words, avoid if there’s a function. The kitchen can’t seem to handle a summer crowd on top. Plus, the angled ceiling and bare wood accentuate every murmur, and chatter becomes cacophonous.
- LINDA LABAN